thinkness - Umami

November 05, 2003

Umami

I'm obsessed with umami. What is umami, you ask? Why, it is the world's most newly discovered flavor! You know how there's salty, sweet, bitter, and sour? There's also umami. Umami was identified as a flavor by brilliant East Asian chefs about 1200 years ago. In 1907, This fella named Kikunae Ikeda found that the amino acid glutamate was plentiful in umami-esque foods, and a compound called monosodium glutamate very effectively conveyed it.

Umami is a hard flavor to describe. Ikeda found the flavor in 'asparagus, tomatoes, cheese and meat'. World Wide Words' Weird Words section says it's been described as 'savoury, essence, pungent, deliciousness, and meaty.' A panel of expert food editors said they preferred the taste of broth made with MSG to broth made with regular table salt; they identified the MSG broth as 'rich,' 'well-rounded,' 'savory,' 'full-bodied,' 'brothy,' and 'more chicken-like.'

For a while, umami was generally disregarded by Westerners, not put in the pantheon of the basic flavors. Recently, however, neuroscientists found a umami receptor on the tongue, and since then, the idea of umami as the fifth flavor has quickly picked up currency. Companies sell food based on its umami content. [Check the slogan: 'Fermented fish makes food taste better... seriously.'] Gourmands praise the flavor while restaurateurs open shrines to it.

Now scientists have found out a lot more about umami receptors. They found the exact proteins on the tongues of mice that are entirely responsible for the triggering of the umami flavor. Yum.

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